Don't overlook an opportunity to eat at Sundae Cafe and Deli. Tybee Island restaurant makes the most of its location along U.S. 80

By Hal Cooper
Savannah Morning News Restaurant Reviewer

Sandwiched between a liquor shop and a convenience store on U.S. Hwy. 80, the Sundae Cafe and Deli seems an unlikely spot for fine food.

But once you're past its unpretentious entrance, the hustle and bustle of Tybee Island's main thoroughfare disappear and the pride and professionalism of a well-run restaurant take over.

Ms. Cooper and I arrived early on a recent Saturday evening. The two small dining areas quickly filled, and anyone planning to arrive around 7 or 8 p.m. would be well advised to first make a reservation.

We ordered drinks and then started with appetizers. Ms. Cooper had Pan Seared Lumped Crab Cakes ($8.95) and I had a cup of Roasted Corn & Crab Bisque ($3.95).

The bisque was simple. It relied on flakes rather than lumps of crab and was far more delicate than most bisques I've tried. It was good, but the crab cakes were great. Three of them were wonderfully presented with a Black Bean Sweet Corn Relish.

We didn't send that plate back with any crumbs or sauce left on it.

Our server, who was quiet, knowledgeable and efficient, helped me choose Sweet & Spicy Pistachio Crusted Tuna ($19.95) for an entree. It was a wonderful choice.

The tuna and its accompanying Jack Daniels Sweet Potato Souffle came topped with floss-thin strings of sweet potatoes. Everything was delicious -- the tuna, the souffle and the asparagus -- but I kept digging around the plate looking for a few more of those strings. They deserve a spot on the menu by themselves.

Ms. Cooper, as ever, turned up her nose at anything made with sweet potatoes.

She had Shrimp & Scallop Pasta ($14.95), a light and spicy offering that was set atop spinach fettuccine and accompanied by asparagus. She raved about the scallops, praising their size, consistency and taste.

Sundae's dessert offerings didn't disappoint either.

You can see the homemade pies and cakes when you enter. Be smart, unlike us, and leave plenty of room.

I ordered the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup Pie ($3.99). It was a big, sweet, thick caloric catastrophe -- and worth all the effort I've spent since trying to burn it off.

Ms. Cooper opted for a simple slice of cheesecake ($3.99), topped with chocolate syrup. Hers was likewise scrumptious.

We walked out the door stuffed -- and carrying two to-go boxes.

The parking lot was full, testimony to Sundae's ability to make the most from its surroundings.

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